With Y2K fashion still reigning supreme, it is hardly surprising that one of the most iconic designer bags of the Noughties is booming once again. Of course, we’re talking about the era-defining Balenciaga City bag, which has been enjoying a major revival this year, so much so, it has even been picked back up by original fan, Kate Moss, and has been the focus of the label's most recent viral campaign.
Originally released in 2001 during then-creative director Nicolas Ghesquière’s tenure, the City was previously known as the Motorcycle City Bag and became one of the fashion house’s most coveted designs – although its success wasn't exactly written in the stars.
When Ghesquière sent the design down the runway back in 2001, it was met with mixed reception: the house's stakeholders were reluctant to put it into production, fearing the supple, slouchy shape and tough hardware wouldn't appeal to the masses in an age where the neat Louis Vuitton Speedy and ladylike Fendi Baguette reigned supreme.
To begin with, just 25 bags were made, but one made it into the arms of Kate Moss – and nothing turns a fashion risk into a roaring commercial success quite like the supermodel's seal of approval.
Ironically, the handbag’s appeal lay exactly in its logo-less, relaxed and unstructured silhouette, and there was hardly a Noughties It girl that wasn't carrying one everywhere. Moss wore hers religiously, as did the Olsen twins and Nicole Richie. The City was papped on the red carpet, in classic Starbucks-run shots (a pop culture symbol of the time period) and at festivals from Glastonbury to Coachella.
More recently, searches for the original Balenciaga City bag have soared, with the vintage studded models now in high demand. At designer resale site Vestiaire Collective, the style is in the top 10 most-wanted bags of the year, while eBay's authenticated section is full of well-preserved Cities in a rainbow of hues. In fact, eBay was where I found my own City, in classic slouchy black leather and finished with yellow-gold hardware. Supple, practical and just large enough to hold a laptop, it's the only bag I've used all year.
Responding to the resurgence, Balenciaga launched a refreshed version of the City in 2021. The Le Cagole features hardware that nods to the Noughties original, but with a more streamlined silhouette. Seen on the arms of everyone from Dua Lipa to Bella Hadid, it has proved every bit as popular as its predecessor.
And, in April 2024, reacting to the continuing demand for Cities on resale sites, Balenciaga re-released that Noughties original. According to the house, numerous archival City styles have been studied and remodelled to create the new bag which perfectly mimics the original City, but with more modernised design and production.
"The bag's defining characteristics (including the leather-strung zipper pulls and rivets) have subsequently inspired the aesthetic of other Balenciaga lines, including Le Cagole and Neo Classic, but Le City is created to echo the circa-2001 reference almost exactly, improved upon in terms of sustainable production," the brand told us.
Most recently, Balenciaga launched a new campaign for the bag featuring a number of high-profile front-row regulars including Devon Lee Carlson, Pernille Teisbaek and Paloma Elsesser, all chatting before a fictional Balenciaga fashion show holding their City bags. And, the campaign has predictably gone viral on social media. It is just the latest sign that the City bag is more popular than ever.
Inspired? Below, see the very best pre-loved Balenciaga City bags available to buy now. A style that arguably looks better with age thanks to its soft silhouette and crackled leather, each has been verified and will fulfil every Noughties dream – especially when teamed with a Venti skinny latte.